Embracing Biotech for New Fashion

FASHION! It’s among the greatest symbols of creativity and culture in our modern age. However, even with all its glamour, fashion is one of the world’s most resource-intensive and polluting industries. From polyester (a petroleum-based fabric) to traditional cotton (notorious for its water usage and substantial pesticide requirements), the environmental footprint of our wardrobes is quite significant. Enter biotechnology: a true game-changer in this industry. Imagine biologically grown clothes that are sustainable, biodegradable, and in style. In this edition of BioFusion, we’ll explore how biotech is transforming fashion and spotlight innovative companies leading this revolution.

Source: Young, Sarah. “The Fabrics with the Worst Environmental Impact Revealed, from Polyester to Fur.” The Independent, 1 June 2021, www.independent.co.uk/climate-change/sustainable-living/fast-fashion-sustainable-worst-fabrics-b1855935.html.

The Problem with Traditional Fabrics

• Polyester and Synthetics:

Polyester, one of the most widely used fabrics, is derived from fossil fuels. This means its production releases significant greenhouse gases into the atmosphere. As polyester degrades, it sheds microplastics into the environment, polluting waterways and harming marine life. According to the Common Objective, “As an oil-based plastic, polyester does not biodegrade like natural fibers. Rather it stays in landfills for several decades at least – and potentially for hundreds of years” (1). Because such synthetic fabrics can decompose for centuries at a time, they may leach harmful chemicals into the surrounding soil, contaminating the native environment.

Source: Hill, Rhonda. “EDGE Fast Fact | Non-Biodegradable Clothes Take 20 to 200 Years to Biodegrade.” E D G E, E D G E, 5 Sept. 2017, edgexpo.com/2017/09/05/edge-fast-fact-non-biodegradable-clothes-take-20-to-200-years-to-biodegrade/.

• Cotton’s Environmental Toll:

While cotton is a natural fiber, its conventional farming practices involve the excessive use of water and chemical pesticides, which are leading to soil degradation and water pollution. According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the cultivation of cotton occupies “2.5% of the world's arable land but consumes 200,000 tons of pesticides and 8 million tons of fertilizers annually, accounting for 16% and 4% respectively of global use” (2).

Biotech to the Rescue: New-Age Materials

Biotechnology offers innovative alternatives to traditional fabrics. By using living organisms such as fungi, algae, and bacteria, scientists are creating materials that are sustainable, biodegradable, and even capable of unique functionalities.

Source: “The Role of Biotechnology in the Production of Textiles.” Textile News, Apparel News, RMG News, Fashion Trends, 29 Jan. 2023, www.textiletoday.com.bd/role-biotechnology-production-textiles.

1. Mycelium Leather: The Fungi Alternative

Mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms and other fungi, is being used to create a leather-like material. Leading innovators are using this material to develop durable, flexible, and biodegradable alternatives to animal leather. Mushroom textiles are cruelty-free and completely remove the need for industrial animal agriculture, thus requiring fewer resources than livestock farming. Furthermore, these types of mushroom fibers are natural and biodegradable at the end of their life cycle (3).

Source: Jackson-edwards, Phoebe. “Designer Creates Dress from MUSHROOM ROOT.” Mail Online, 27 Apr. 2016, www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3561205/Is-FUNGUS-future-fashion-Designer-grows-eco-friendly-dress-mushroom-root-just-one-week.html.

2. Algae-Based Textiles: Renewable and Compostable

Algae is another superstar in the biotech fabric scene. Leading companies are producing fibers and dyes from algae, offering a renewable and compostable alternative to synthetic materials like polyester. These algae-based textiles not only reduce carbon emissions but also offer a unique, silky texture that may attract a particular customer base.

(If you want more information regarding algae’s sustainable applications, check out our recent blog post, “Algal Bloom & Bust.”)

3. Spider Silk: Strong and Sustainable

Spider webs make up one of the strongest materials in the natural world. Think about it: even with your comparatively gigantic size, whenever you try to clear a spiderweb in your room, you feel its resistance. The impressive quality of spider webs has led researchers to investigate ways to innovate spider silk and implement it into our clothing. Inspired by nature, synthetic spider silk is a protein-based fiber made through fermentation processes. There are several ways to produce spider silk without the help of spiders directly.  For example, according to Forbes Magazine, Japanese Biotech company Spiber “expresses the spidroin proteins in micro-organisms such as bacteria” (4). This enables them to create fabrics that mimic the strength and elasticity of spider silk, providing a lightweight, durable alternative to synthetic fibers.

Source: Leggett, Hadley. “1 Million Spiders Make Golden Silk for Rare Cloth.” Wired, 23 Sept. 2009, www.wired.com/2009/09/spider-silk/.

Companies Leading the Charge

Several companies are pushing these innovations from the lab to the market:

• Stella McCartney: A trailblazer in sustainable fashion, Stella McCartney launched the world’s first-ever luxury bag crafted from Mylo™ – “a verified vegan alternative to animal leather made using mycelium” (5). With its integration of biotech innovations, the brand has set a high standard for luxury fashion.

Source: “MyloTM: Mycelium-Based Alternative to Animal Leather | Stella McCartney UK.” Www.stellamccartney.com, www.stellamccartney.com/us/en/sustainability/mylo-mycelium-based-alternative-to-animal-leather-stella-mccartney.html.

• Adidas: Adidas has partnered with Bolt Threads to produce sneakers featuring mycelium leather, appealing to eco-conscious consumers without compromising performance (6).

Source: Adidas. “Stan Smith MyloTM: Made Using Mushrooms.” Adidas US, adidas, 20 Apr. 2021, www.adidas.com/us/blog/663481-stan-smith-mylotm-made-using-mushrooms.

• PANGAIA: Known for its focus on sustainable materials, PANGAIA incorporates bioengineered fibers like seaweed-based fabrics and plant dyes into its collections. The company claims that its technology “turns naturally regenerative eucalyptus pulp and seaweed powder into soft and silky t-shirts, tops, and dresses” (7).

  
  

Challenges Ahead

Despite its promise, biotech fashion faces several hurdles:

1. Scaling Up Production: One of the biggest hurdles that biotech fashion faces is scaling up from lab successes to industrial-sized productions. It’s not just about making more—it’s about ensuring consistency, quality, and cost-efficiency on a massive scale. Technologies like mycelium leather or algae-based fabrics often need specialized equipment and processes that are still developing. This means production isn't as smooth or predictable as it is for traditional textiles​.

2. Consumer Acceptance: While more people are embracing sustainable fashion, bioengineered fabrics still feel “weird” to some shoppers. Convincing the general public that these materials are not just safe but also stylish and functional takes time and smart marketing.

Source: Kim, Audrey. “How the Apparel Industry Could Refashion Itself.” News.stanford.edu, 27 June 2024, news.stanford.edu/stories/2024/06/how-apparel-industry-could-refashion-itself-sustainability-mind.

3. Regulation and Standardization: Biotech isn’t just about cool science—it’s also about meeting safety and regulatory standards, especially if the materials involve genetically modified organisms (GMOs). These rules are crucial for public safety, but they can also slow down innovation and increase costs for companies trying to bring new materials to market​

   
   

Conclusion

Biotechnology is currently the biggest game-changer in the fashion industry. As companies continue to innovate and consumers embrace sustainable choices, bioengineered fabrics are poised to replace their environmentally harmful predecessors.

The next time you shop for clothes, remember that your choices can shape a greener future. By supporting brands that invest in biotech solutions, you’re not just buying fashion—you’re investing in the planet.

What’s your take on biologically grown clothes? Would you trade your synthetic threads for a sustainable alternative? Share your thoughts below!

Bibliography

1. Common Objective. “Fibre Briefing: Polyester.” Common Objective, Common Objective, 22 Oct. 2021, www.commonobjective.co/article/fibre-briefing-polyester.

2. Lea. “The Environmental Impact of Cotton Production  - International Science Council.” International Science Council, 17 June 2024, council.science/blog/the-environmental-impact-of-cotton-production/.

3. Wolfe, Watson . “What Is Mushroom Leather?” Watson & Wolfe, 8 Feb. 2020, www.watsonwolfe.com/2020/02/08/what-is-mushroom-leather/?srsltid=AfmBOoqbPlJ7G5Hicyre3Vx-02YLuvJNZk8IUUtW5RxlZdSDaZZk6anV. Accessed 26 Nov. 2024.

4. Amsen, Eva. “Your next Outfit Could Be Made from Spider Silk.” Forbes, www.forbes.com/sites/evaamsen/2022/10/30/your-next-outfit-could-be-made-from-spider-silk/.

5. “MyloTM: Mycelium-Based Alternative to Animal Leather | Stella McCartney UK.” Stellamccartney.com, 2024, www.stellamccartney.com/us/en/sustainability/mylo-mycelium-based-alternative-to-animal-leather-stella-mccartney.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqtkb8Exol-vebK1IaLNLW1_LD2kUwEoaJPQipPjUPq94I5tYRR. Accessed 26 Nov. 2024.

6. “Stella McCartney and Adidas Use Mushroom Vegan Leather.” Commonshare.com, 2022, news.commonshare.com/blog/adidas-and-stella-mccartney-use-mushroom-vegan-leather. Accessed 26 Nov. 2024.

7. “PANGAIA C-FIBERTM Capsule.” Pangaia.com, 2014, pangaia.com/collections/c-fiber. Accessed 26 Nov. 2024.